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内容大纲
本书分为规则波和不规则波两大部分。第一部分首先描述了一些日常可见的水波现象，并用相关波浪理论进行解释；随后回顾势流理论和矢量分析，阐述线性水波理论并求出二维驻波和行进波的解析表达式；接下来讨论与工程相关的波浪特征，包括质点运动、压力场、波能、浅水效应、折射和衍射等。第二部分首先引入随机振幅和相位模型，并介绍两种获取波浪谱的方法，针对波谱类型进行说明后介绍谱矩在工程中的应用；随后推导出波面位移、波幅、波高和周期的概率预测模型，指出由于窄带线性假设的原因，模型预测与实测波浪数据会有偏差；最后讨论了长期波浪的分析，针对工程中在给定重现周期下求解极端波浪高度的一般流程进行详细说明和具体案例分析。 -
作者介绍
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目录
Chapter 1 Introduction
1.1 Significance
1.2 Regular Waves
1.3 Irregular Waves
1.4 Outline of Chapters
Chapter 2 Formulation of the Equations of Motion
2.1 Vector Analysis
2.2 Continuity Equation
2.3 Hydrostatic Pressure Equation
2.4 Euler Equations
2.5 Bernoulli Equation
2.6 Kinematic Boundary Conditions
2.7 Exercise
Chapter 3 Linear Solutions to the Equations of Motion
3.1 Formulation of the Boundary Value Problem
3.2 Linearized 2D Wave Boundary Conditions
3.3 Solution to the Boundary Value Problem
3.4 Stationary Wave and Progressive Wave
3.5 Linear Dispersion Relationship
3.6 Wavelength and Wave Celerity
3.7 Waves Propagating on a Current
3.8 Exercise
Chapter 4 Analysis of Wave Properties
4.1 Particle Kinematics for Progressive Waves
4.2 Pressure Field under Progressive Waves
4.3 Particle Kinematics for Stationary Waves
4.4 Pressure Field under Stationary Waves
4.5 Group Velocity
4.6 Wave Energy and Energy Flux
4.7 Oblique Waves
4.8 Exercise
Chapter 5 Wave Transformation at the Nearshore Region
5.1 Conservation of Wave Number
5.2 Wave Refraction
5.3 Conservation of Wave Energy
5.4 Wave Breaking
5.5 Wave Diffraction
5.6 Exercise
Chapter 6 Random Sea Surface
6.1 Representation of Random Surface Elevations
6.2 Wave Spectrum
6.3 Exercise
Chapter 7 Statistical Analysis of Irregular Waves
7.1 Distribution of Surface Displacements
7.2 Distribution of Wave Amplitudes
7.3 Distribution of Wave Heights
7.4 Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods
7.5 Exercise
Chapter 8 Extreme Wave Statistics
8.1 Long-Term Wave Statistics
8.2 Data for Extreme Wave Analysis
8.3 Distribution Functions of Extreme Waves
8.4 Return Period and Return Value
8.5 Estimation of the Best-Fitting Distribution Function
8.6 Determination of Return Value
8.7 Selection of Return Period
8.8 Exercise
Appendix A
Appendix B
Appendix C
References
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